Ribbed Socks for Impatient Knitters

Ribbed Socks for Impatient Sock Knitters 

by Keya Kuhn

Please read the terms of use at the end of the pattern before proceeding.

This pattern fits a typical 8" foot circumference.  To enlarge to 9", etc, increase ribbing by 8 stitches and leg by 2 stitches after ribbing per inch diameter increase (or you might have to decrease a stitch or two). The key is to have a total number of stitches for the leg that is divisible by 5. Likewise, to make a smaller sock, decrease by the same amount of stitches above, making sure that the cuff will have an even number of stitches divisible by 4 and the leg an even number of stitches divisible by 5. 

This pattern is written for knitting socks 2-at-a-time because, really, who has time to knit that second sock?  You could do this pattern one sock at-a-time, though, if that’s your thing.

Abbreviations:

M1L = make 1 stitch by picking up the bar between stitches from the front & knitting into the back of the stitch.

M1R = make 1 stitch by picking up the bar between stitches from the back & knitting into the front of the stitch.

K2tog = knit two stitches together

K = knit

P = purl

SSK = slip one stitch to right needle, slip another stitch to right needle, knit 2 stitches together.

CUFF

With a fingering weight yarn (About 400 yards' worth) and US 2 (2.75 mm) circular (cable at 42-47"), CO 64 stitches for sock A with yarn A and another 64 stitches for sock B with yarn B (all on the same cable because this is written for magic loop).

Join each sock—work one completely around at a time--and K2, P2 around, beginning with sock A and then moving to join sock B.

Knit ribbing for each sock around the cable until ribbing is at least 12 rounds (about 1.5") or longer to suit. I usually do 13.

Next round, K1, (for all sizes) increase/decrease by one stitch (or # needed to get a total stitch count divisible by 5); continue in cuff ribbing pattern around each sock.

LEG

K3, P2 around both socks until leg is the same length as your hand (measured palm to tip of middle finger) or desired length.  Palm to tip of middle finger should be the same as ankle to mid-calf, by the way.  Turns out this measurement also works equally well for heel to the point where you begin to decrease for the toe on the foot of the sock.

SHORT-ROW HEEL

The short-row heel is really a heel cup. It is worked on exactly half of the leg stitches -1 or +1. Most short-row heel patterns are worked on exactly half of the leg stitches, but we want to maintain the ribbing pattern for the foot in this case.

The instep stitches will sit quietly and patiently on the cable while you are working this type of heel. If you want to for the purpose of maintaining visual perspective, place a locking marker at the center of the heel stitches. 
 R1 – Knit across whatever equals about half the total number of stitches without ending up in the middle of a knit or a purl section of ribbed sock, -1 or +1 (trying to keep the instep ribbed pattern intact). Slip the next stitch to the right-hand needle, bring the 

yarn to front, return the stitch to the left needle, and move the yarn to the back of the work to work the next purl row. Turn your work.
 

R2 – Purl across the row, leaving the last stitch un-worked. Slip this stitch to the right needle, bring the 

yarn to the back, put the stitch back onto the left needle, and put the yarn to the front for the next knit row. Turn. Repeat R1 & R2 until you have 1” of un-worked stitches (0.5” on either side of the locking marker)--11 remaining stitches (wrong side worked) is usually where I stop for a 64-stitch sock. For a man’s sock, you may want to leave 1.5 inches of un-worked stitches.  Be sure that you have wrapped the last un-worked stitch on each of the last two rows you do before moving on.

P.S. Some people like to work two more short rows so the finished socks won’t pinch over the
instep if they have a high instep.
 

To finish the heel:

R1 (RS) – Knit to the first wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap around that stitch and place it on the left
needle (I like to pick up from the front and twist the strand so there’s less of a gap).  Knit these two “stitches” together as one stitch.  Wrap the next stitch (results in a double wrapped stitch and a reinforced seam). Turn.
 

R2 (WS) – Purl to the first wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap(s) and put it on the left needle (again, I like a little twist). Purl the “stitches” together as one stitch. Wrap the next stitch. Turn.
  

Repeat R1 & R2 until all wrapped stitches are worked, ending on a WS row.

Still working heel A, M1L where the heel meets the instep stitches, then knit across the row, ending with M1R. Work across the instep pattern stitches. 

Repeat all instructions for Sock B’s heel.  You can work this one of two ways.  You can work the rib pattern across half of the stitches -1 or +1, then begin the heel stitches or you can work the heel stitches (heels will be on opposite sides of the cable for the rest of the project), which allows for working the Sock B heel in exactly the same manner as that of Sock A. 

FOOT

Beginning with sock A, SSK (M1 and 1^st heel stitch), knit across the heel, K2tog (last heel stitch and M1), then knit the instep in ribbed pattern (one round done for sock A). Beginning with sock B, SSK (M1 and 1^st heel stitch), knit across the heel, K2tog (last heel stitch and M1), then knit across the ribbed pattern of the instep (one round done for sock B).

Quick Fix: If you end up with one stitch missing from the ribbed pattern at the end of the instep row, just M1 and K2tog at the beginning of the heel stitches.  That’s what I do.  Sometimes I get a stitch off on sock B, but it’s an easy fix.

Continue working instep and heel stitches in rounds until you have knit all but two inches of the entire length of the foot.

As a general note, your foot circumference should be similar, if not the same as, your leg circumference.  If you need a narrower foot circumference, it will be necessary to decrease stitches at regular intervals on the sole of the foot immediately following completion of the heel.

TOE

R1:  Beginning with sock A, knit one round.  Move to sock B and knit one round. 

R2:  (Sole) Beginning with sock A, K1, SSK, knit to 3 stitches before end of instep stitches, K2tog, K1.  (Instep) K1, SSK, knit across instep to last 3 stitches before end, K2tog, K1.  Repeat for sock B.

R3: Knit all stitches for sock A and sock B.

Repeat rnds 2 & 3 five more times.

Repeat rnd 2 (only) until 8 or 10 stitches remain on each needle.

Finishing:

Use the Kitchener Stitch method to graft toe stitches together.  Weave in all ends.  Wear your fabulous PAIR of socks!

Terms of Use:  By printing/downloading this pattern you agree to the terms of this pattern, which is the intellectual property of Keya Kuhn.  This pattern may be used for personal use only. Reproduction of this pattern for sale or sale of products made from this pattern without the consent of Keya Kuhn is prohibited. Copyright 2013, Keya Kuhn. All rights reserved.